Showing posts with label mold making. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mold making. Show all posts
Sunday, February 28, 2010
#007 01 Dr. Bank's Office - Casting the Walls
The framing is good. Not perfect, but acceptable for what I'm modeling. Looks like Scott needs to get new glasses, so I'll go see the doc next week.
What I want to do is to make molds of both sides so that I can produce more of these and use them as bunk houses. Since the frame takes alot of long and tedious work, we'll just cast them in plaster. We'll start with two sheets of .020 acetate since it was handy. You can use styrene or wood as well.
Next we remove the framing from the paper drawing. This is rather a pain in the but and I'm not sure I'll do this again. Next time I'll add a coat of wax paper.
There! All cleaned up and ready to be mounted to the mold frame.
Here is the acetate sheet. I like the clear material because it let's me see how well the master and casting dams are mounted, letting me check for gaps and leaks.
Using some 1/4" square basswood boards, I make a pinwheel dam. This is an easy way to build a dam that doesn't require a lot of accuracy in cutting and can be removed easily.
Done. Now I'll do the other one and let the glue dry. Note that Ailene's Tacky Glue was used liberally as wood and plastic don't always stick together. If the master is not fastened down properly it will float up into the silicone and be destroyed.
While our mold set dries, let's make some clap board. I'm using S scale 2" x 12" boards which come out to about a 1" x 9" board. The O scale 2 x 12 looked a little clunky, so I used this since I had it on hand. First I distressed the wood with a razor saw blade.
There is an exterior side and an interior side. Each has to be weathered differently. In order to keep track of sides I put a spot of red paint (or magic marker) on one end on one side.
Next I took a dull hobby knife and scored up the boards, even chopping some parts of the board away.
Damn! The Canadians beat the US in overtime. That was for the gold. Crap!
Here is where I "chunked" the board.
After I got through distressing the board, I gave it a light sanding to get rid of the fuzz.
Next I coated the exterior (red dot) side with Dr. Ben's Aged Driftwood Stain. This was done rather sloppily in order to get some randomness.
Then I weathered the interior side of the boards using Dr. Ben's Instant Age Stain. Again, I was sloppy and didn't make the wood too dark as it will be inside.
Once the boards were all weathered I placed them under a glass plate to dry and flatten out (the solvent in the stains will make them curl a bit.)
I sprayed the two masters with Testor's Dullcoat and let them dry. Later in the evening I came back and mixed up some Alumilite HS3 Silicone Mold Making Compound. This is a small kit that I keep around but often I buy it by the bucket.
You have to follow the directions carefully or it won't solidify. I'm kind of worried about this batch since the material is over a year old. I mixed 5 oz of white and a 1/2 oz of red activator.
The batch was mixed THOROUGHLY and air bubbles were allowed to escape.
I poured the silicone mold maker into the frames very slowly to help air bubbles escape We'll let both molds cure for 24-48 hours. This is a thin mold, so 24 should be enough. We'll take the wood frame out and make a casting to test the mold.
That's all for now!
Labels:
01 Dr Banks Office,
mold making,
Weathering
Sunday, August 16, 2009
The Backshop - Link and Pin Couplers
I'm excited to find that the Backshop, a model train supply company that focuses on O scale, has really nice link and pin couplers.
http://home.onemain.com/~thebackshop/link.htm
They have a horrible website. Hard to navigate and rough on the eyes. Says they have been in business for 50 years.
http://home.onemain.com/~thebackshop/
They do have one very handy service: they take plastic parts and turn them into brass!
http://home.onemain.com/~thebackshop/plastics.htm
My biggest complaint...they don't have a catalog of parts available on the website! In this day and age, to pay $4.00 to snail mail a catalog is crazy. Why not put a PDF on the site. Probably be a long time before I order any parts here.
http://home.onemain.com/~thebackshop/link.htm
They have a horrible website. Hard to navigate and rough on the eyes. Says they have been in business for 50 years.
http://home.onemain.com/~thebackshop/
They do have one very handy service: they take plastic parts and turn them into brass!
http://home.onemain.com/~thebackshop/plastics.htm
My biggest complaint...they don't have a catalog of parts available on the website! In this day and age, to pay $4.00 to snail mail a catalog is crazy. Why not put a PDF on the site. Probably be a long time before I order any parts here.
THE BACK SHOP
PO Box 15285,
Sacramento, CA 95851-0285 USA
Email: dbraun@jps.net
Homepage: http://home.onemain.com/~thebackshop
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Sculpting Alligators
In the 1920's Okefenokee Swamp, the alligators still reigned supreme. While the average gator was about 8 feet long, specimens in excess of 13 feet were common and reports of gators around 16 feet were not unheard of.In order to model the swamp I think I'll need about 12 alligator masters to make about 40 models. The gators available as parts in 0 scale stink, so I'll have to carve my own. I took a stab at it today and my first effort was really good, but I got the head dimensions wrong. So, let's start studying alligators and taking pictures.
Information on Alligators
American Alligators
Gator Pictures
Computer Model of Alligator
Labels:
model building,
mold making,
scenery,
Wildlife
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Cypress Trees
I'm going to need trees very quickly so I have to start producing the molds. People are already trying to buy them from me and I haven't talked much about them yet. Here is my outline for the trees:
| Cypress Trees Analysis | |||||||
| Series | Inches from Front | Size | Quantity | Detail | Height Inches Low | Height Inches High | Part Numbers |
| 1100 | 6 | Large | 5 | High | 12 | 14 | 1101-1105 |
| 1150 | 12 | Medium | 9 | High | 11 | 13 | 1151-1159 |
| 1200 | 18 | Medium | 9 | Medium | 10 | 12 | 1201-1209 |
| 1250 | 24 | Small | 10 | Low | 9 | 11 | 1251-1260 |
| 1300 | Backdrop | Small | 3 | Low | 9 | 10 | 1301-1303 |
| 36 | |||||||
| Knees | |||||||
| Level | Inches from Front | Size | Quantity | Detail | Height Inches Low | Height Inches High | Set Part Numbers |
| 1350 | 6 | Large | 2 Dozen | High | 2 | 4 | 1351-1352 |
| 1400 | 12 | Medium | 2 Dozen | Medium | 1 | 3 | 1401-1402 |
| 1450 | 18+ | Small | 2 Dozen | Low | 1 | 2 | 1451-1452 |
| Stumps | |||||||
| Level | Inches from Front | Size | Quantity | Detail | Height Inches Low | Height Inches High | Part Numbers |
| 1500 | 6 | Large | 12 | High | 2 | 4 | 1501-1512 |
| 1550 | 12 | Medium | 12 | Medium | 1 | 3 | 1551-1562 |
| 1600 | 18+ | Small | 12 | Low | 1 | 2 | 1601-1612 |
| Mold Casings | |||||||
| 33 | Halves | ||||||
| Total Molds | |||||||
| 1 piece | 13 | ||||||
| 2 piece | 33 | ||||||
| 46 | |||||||
Labels:
cypress trees,
mold making,
scratchbuilding
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